— The Method
How it comes together.
- Step 01
I start by steeping the saffron in the hot water so it can fully bloom before it ever touches the rice. Keep the stock warm in a saucepan nearby; cold stock shocks the rice and interrupts the rhythm of the cook. In a heavy pot, melt the butter with the marrow over medium-low heat, then add the onion with a pinch of salt. Cook it gently until soft and translucent, letting the sweetness develop without browning.
- Step 02
Add the rice and stir for 1 to 2 minutes so each grain gets coated in fat and lightly toasted. I listen for a subtle change in the sound of the rice hitting the pan and watch for the edges to look slightly translucent. Pour in the wine and stir until it is fully absorbed and the smell turns from sharp to soft. This is the first point where the risotto begins to build its body.
- Step 03
Begin adding the hot stock one ladle at a time, stirring steadily but not frantically. Wait until most of the liquid is absorbed before adding the next ladle, keeping the rice moving enough to release starch while still cooking evenly. After about 12 minutes, stir in the saffron infusion so the color spreads gradually through the pot.
- Step 04
The aroma should become floral, warm, and unmistakably luxurious. Continue cooking and feeding the rice for another 6 to 8 minutes, tasting often as you approach doneness. The grains should be tender on the outside with a slight firmness at the center, and the texture should flow, not mound stiffly. Adjust the salt carefully, remembering the cheese will add more later. If the risotto starts looking dense, loosen it immediately with another splash of stock.
- Step 05
Take the pot off the heat and add the cold butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano in one confident finish. Stir energetically to mount the risotto until it turns glossy and supple. I like to plate it allonda, meaning it spreads in a gentle wave when the plate is tapped. Serve right away while the saffron perfume is still vivid and the texture is at its peak.

Risotto alla Milanese
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