Spaghetti Carbonara

— The Method

How it comes together.

1. Step 01

   I begin by setting a large pot of water over high heat and salting it generously once it starts steaming. Then I cut the guanciale into short strips and finely grate both cheeses so everything is ready before the pasta is done. In a bowl, I whisk the eggs and yolks with the cheese and plenty of black pepper until the mixture turns thick and pale.

2. Step 02

   It should look rich and cohesive, like the start of a proper sauce rather than a loose scramble. I cook the guanciale over medium heat with a small touch of olive oil only if it needs help getting started. Over 7 to 10 minutes, the fat renders and the edges turn crisp while the center keeps a little tenderness. I scoop the meat out and reserve a few spoonfuls of the rendered fat in the pan because that flavor is essential to the final emulsion. The smell should be peppery, cured, and almost sweet.

3. Step 03

   I boil the spaghetti until 2 minutes shy of done, saving plenty of the starchy cooking water before draining. Then I add pasta water to the pan with the rendered fat and bring it to a brief simmer before dropping in the spaghetti. I stir vigorously for about 2 minutes so the noodles finish cooking and release starch into the liquid. That step gives me the foundation for a sauce that clings instead of sliding off.

4. Step 04

   Off the heat, I temper the egg-and-cheese mixture with a little hot pasta water, then pour it slowly over the pasta while tossing constantly. If it looks too tight, I loosen it a tablespoon at a time with more warm pasta water until it turns glossy like heavy cream. Finally, I fold in the guanciale and finish with extra pecorino and black pepper.

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5. Step 05

   The texture I want is satin-smooth, with no scrambled bits and no puddle at the bottom of the bowl.